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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. However, tucked prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary achievement.